By Kirsten Ott
Though the term “creative genius” might be a tad obvious, that’s Richard Blais in a nutshell. He’s one of those funky, spunky types you can’t get enough of. The quirky chef pushes boundaries wherever he sees them, his energy is contagious, and his creations, are, well, genius.
Trained by the Culinary Institute of America, studying under luminaries such as chefs Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud and Ferran Adria and working in some of the most diverse kitchens, including Daniel in New York, French Laundry in Napa Valley, Calif., and El Bulli in Spain, the nomad chef has cultivated a myriad of experiences. Years ago, he turned Fishbone from a flop to a foodie destination. For a six-month stint in 2003 and 2004, he served strange bites of gastronomic curiosities at his eponymous restaurant.
Afterward, he successfully ran the back of the house at One Midtown Kitchen, and was recognized by Gayot Guide as one of the “Top Five Rising Chefs of 2005.” In 2006, he battled Mario Batali on “Iron Chef.” Then it was onto delighting senses in 2007 at Element Gastro Lounge + Food Lab, Blais’ molecular gastronomic cuisine forum. In 2008, we cheered for him in season four of “Top Chef” (he came in second place). Blais worked for a brief time in Tom Catherall’s Home restaurant in the fall. For the past year though, he’s been plotting something grandly simple, something so fun and entertaining that even the purist of palates could enjoy: Flip.
In December, Blais and business partner Barry Mills opened the instantly and insanely popular Flip Burger Boutique in the urban, deconstructed Howell Mill Road area in West Midtown. The small restaurant is packed every day and night (closed on Sunday), but the tables turn quickly, and whatever time you have to hang out at the bar, sipping on an array of vino, beer, cool cocktails and vintage soda offerings, is worth it.
The concept for Flip was Mills’ idea first. “I only wanted Richard,” he says. “He’s known for his creativity—to be able to think outside the box. I chose Richard, and built this concept around him. I wanted a fine dining chef, but someone who could be quirky.” He definitely got what he asked for in terms of Blais, who says, “Flip really is what we’re calling it: a modern burger boutique. It’s a chef’s vision of recreating a very iconic food and having fun with it. Being real serious with our craft but not serious about ourselves. Putting it in an environment that says a lot about us. Playing the music we like to listen to in a room we like to hang out in. It’s at a price point that we feel well-represents us. Really, we’re just having fun with it, to be honest with you.”
Of course, Blais, a part-owner and creative director of Flip, isn’t the type to stick with one project at a time. He’s always working on a myriad of different things, and he’s happy that the folks at Flip are at peace with that. He says, “One of the things that’s been really great about our relationship is they understand what I have going on and other commitments that I have and the kind of career track that I’m on, so it’s really been a great combination.” The entrepreneurial chef is on the road a few days a week, primarily working with his own company, Trail Blais, as well as, in his words, “spreading the gospel” about Flip. The kitchen’s not left unattended, though; operating chef Mark Nanna oversees the day-to-day operations at Flip. “He’s the muscle, I’m the brain,” Blais jokes. “Well, I’ve got some muscle, too.”
Blais puts his brain (and muscles) to work in time investments such as serving as a spokesperson for several brands, such as McCormick Spices and Garrett Popcorn. Blais also works with Red Stripe beer, Ciroc and Smirnoff vodka, Johnnie Walker and Quaker Oats. He and Ted Allen recently shot an episode about molecular mixology for “Food Detectives” for Food Network, and he’s often crisscrossing the nation to do requested chef dinners at spas, hotels, restaurants and private homes. He’s even working with Timberland to help launch a line of kitchen footwear. The man who rocked the faux-hawk and liquid nitrogen on cable TV doesn’t ever seem to slow down, and it’s that infectious creative energy that brought Atlanta its first dedicated gourmet burger joint.
FLIP SERVICEFlip has its quirks—in all the right places. The bright-white room houses a smattering of white wooden tables with what Blais calls “reversals,” identical tables clutching the ceiling, to play on the restaurant’s name. On one wall, a few white leather booths are mirrored by upside-down booths above. Directly across, the wall behind a lengthy bar sports mirrors and flat-screens framed in white Baroque-style plaster. Mills says he didn’t want TVs at all, but the lunch crowd needed it. The solo diner has plenty to look at here, what with the custom graphic on the far wall inspired by a Prada ad Mills spotted in NYC and the inventive burgers coming out of the open kitchen, which diners can get a close look at when they eat at the burger bar Blais instituted.
THE MEAT OF ITAnd those burgers are as fun to look at as they are to eat. Unique in size—smaller than your average restaurant burger, but decidedly larger than sliders—and in ingredients, each one is as interesting as the next. With options ranging from the standard Flip burger, which consists of hangar steak, brisket and short rib and topped with onion, lettuce, tomato and house-made pickles, to the po’ boyger, a jazzy number with ground shrimp, Old Bay mayo, shaved lettuce, Tobasco sauce and crowned with a fried lemon, the sandwiches are far from standard. Ordering a few to share amongst friends makes Flip even more fun. Try the rBQ, a pulled-brisket burger covered with coleslaw and sauce, or my favorite, the Butcher Cut, which is a burger topped with caramelized onion, blue cheese and red wine jam. There’s plenty more where that came from. Though the menu rotates a few changes off and on to no particular pattern, there’s a steady stream of 20 or so burgers, from beef, pork, shrimp and lamb to veal, mushroom, turkey, ham and codfish. All burgers are served on deeply delicious brioche buns made special by Alon’s Bakery.
SUPER SIDES MENo gourmet burger would be complete without a few interesting sides, and Blais has concocted a worthy menu of plate-fillers. Even the standard french fries are not so simple. They’re fried in duck and pork fat, as well as peanut oil. Healthy, no. But tasty and beyond, yes. The sweet potato tots arrive with blue cheese foam. The vodka-battered onion rings are fantastically greasy. There’s a Greek slaw, a tossing of cabbage, pureed feta, yogurt, lemon juice and olives that’s a more heart-healthy option, along with a smoked caesar salad and brightly colored pickled vegetables.
GOOD LIBATIONSWhether you’re ordering a milkshake as a drink with your meal or a dessert, Blais’ liquid-nitrogen concoctions are silky treats that shouldn’t be missed. They’re quickly frozen with the weird-science nitrogen tank behind the bar, so you can watch it being made. The Nutella and burnt marshmallow option recalls fun campfires from childhood. The Krispy Kreme concoction is sweet, but only in that fluffy, sugary doughnut kind of way. The real gem is the green pistachio ice cream and white truffle shake, a nutty sensation on the tongue and a hint of truffle earthiness—experimenting at its finest.
If you care to upgrade to something alcoholic, a nice selection of reds and whites are on hand, as well as interesting choices for beers by the bottle (Konings Hoeven Triple Trappist Ale, anyone?) and standards, like Stella Artois, Miller Lite, Blue Moon and Sweetwater, on draft. Playing on the whole soda shop/burger joint theme, Mills and Blais have brought back vintage pure-cane sugar sodas, such as Nehi grape, Quench, SunDrop, Dr. Pepper, Moxie original elixir, A&W root beer, Cheerwine, Bubble Up and Sunkist orange. “We’re treating sodas like other restaurants would a reserve wine list,” says Blais, noting that they’re getting really creative in their hunt for such drinks, hitting up wholesalers on eBay and the like. And for a really good time, order a cocktail and have it chilled with liquid nitrogen, a whimsical approach rarely seen in Atlanta, much less the South.
The fun doesn’t stop at Howell Mill Road. Blais says he and Mills are expanding to more cities this year. As of press time, nothing’s secured, but “We have a few cities on the short list,” he says. “Places like D.C., Philly, Miami, Charleston, Birmingham, and Nashville—these are the types of places that have popped up. And L.A. and New York, of course. We’ll know more in a couple of weeks. And we’re definitely thinking about doing one on the east side of town.”
Kirsten Ott is the Life, Food & Style Editor of The Sunday Paper. Get in touch at kirstenott@sundaypaper.com.
This article originally appeared in the Feb. 1, 2009, edition of The Sunday Paper.DINING ESSENTIALS
FLIP BURGER BOUTIQUE1587 Howell Mill Road
404-352-3547
www.flipburgerboutique.com
Hours: Lunch: Mon.-Thu. 11 a.m.-3 p.m., Sat. 11 a.m.-5 p.m.; Dinner: Mon.-Thu. 5 p.m.-10 p.m., Sat. 5-11 p.m. Closed Sundays.
Reservations: None
Dress Code: Casual
Children: Welcome
Alcohol: Full bar
Cost: Burgers: $6.50-$45; sides: $3-$4; milkshakes: $6-$9; vintage sodas: $3; beer: $3-$7; wine: $5-$84; cocktails: $8-$9
Credit Cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover
Parking: Parking lot, on-street parking
Patio: Yes
The newly minted Leons Full Service Restaurant auctioned off its first pint for $2,650.
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